image for blog article Fascinating Stable Talk Questions And Answers.

Fascinating Stable Talk Questions And Answers.

tack room image for stable talk blog article.
Tidy tack room.
Stable Talk Foreward

There have been many articles published about horses, and horse owners and riders may think that there is nothing new to learn. What makes this article different is that it answers questions continually being asked by owners just like you.

Not only will this article solve your particular horsey headaches, by enabling you to share in the experiences of other horse owners and riders it will help you prepare you for future problems.

This article will solve many of the most common problems you are likely to experience-and some less common.

We hope our stable talk, Horse Questions And Answers article will save you time and money and enhance your enjoyment of your horse.

white horse image for blog article.
Fine looking white horse
Rug Rumpus!

My gelding will not wear any of his rugs and particularly dislikes his N.Z.

He bucks and will not let me put it on him. Could you please give me some advice.

Stable talk Answer:

It sounds as though your gelding is worried about the whole process of being rugged up. Presumably, he is not bothered about being saddled up.

It may be that he has been frightened or caused extreme discomfort by a rug in the past.

Whenever you are in the stable talk quiet and softly, it’s all part of making the horse feel relaxed

Tie him up in the stable or ask someone to hold him for you, and quietly approach him with a neatly folded lightweight rug,

Let him sniff at it, and speak reassuringly to him.

As he settles gently stroke it along his shoulder and back.

When he is quite relaxed about this, slide the rug, still folded, across his withers and unfold it so that it hangs down either side.

Keep reassuring him and keep hold of the rug, so if he panics, it does not slide back or side, which could frighten him more when he feels the movement.

Once you have got to this stage, carefully remove the rug, refold it and repeat the whole process until he is unbothered by it.

The next step is to unfold the rug backwards over his back and quarters quietly.

Make sure any attached straps are secured (surcingles and belly straps are can be tied in a knot), so they do not dangle down and bump against his legs or under his belly and frighten him.

horse in stable image for blog article.
Horse being cared for.

Make your movements quiet and slow, stopping when necessary to reassure and relax him again.

Quietly tighten chest and surcingle straps, checking they are neither too loose nor too tight.

Initially start by using a rug manufactured from a light,non-rustly fabric which conforms well to his shape.

It will be easier to manage and less frightening for him, particularly when he moves.

Even when he becomes more confident, do take care both when rugging and un-rugging him.

Remove rugs by unfastening and securing dangling straps before folding them forward and slipping them off.

A moment’s carelessness when you are a little abrupt could quickly put you back.

You may not solve this problem overnight, but hopefully, with persistence and patience, matters will improve.

Pulling Power!

I have a problem with pulling manes.

Given a long, thick mane of even length, I understand you pull from the underneath to get the required thickness for plaiting.

How do you go about shortening the top layer if it is still too long?

I also do not understand how pulling hair out from the root shortens the mane as well as thinning it.

And what do you do with the new hair that grows underneath?

When I pull my ponies mane, I only seem to thin and not shorten it.

Stable talk Answer:

If you pull the hairs lying on the top of the mane they will form a fringe along the crest, so doing this should be avoided- it can look most odd when plaited!

Brush out the mane thoroughly and pull the longest hairs ( this will shorten as well as thin it ), a few at a time, from the underside.

Aim to achieve the right thickness along the length of the neck.

Don’t concentrate just on those areas where the mane is sparser and more easily pulled nearer to the withers.

Once you have got the mane to the right thickness if you find it is still too long, you can use an old clipper blade or Stanley knife blade to shorten it.

Take one lock of hair at a time, pulling it taut and slicing downwards with the blade.

It will give a neat, more natural effect than using scissors.

When pulling the mane, don’t be tempted to do too much in one go as this will lead to soreness, and your horse may well rub, destroying the effect you have laboured to achieve!

Do a little each day instead, preferably after exercise when your horse is still warm, as the hairs will be a lot easier to pull out.

Difficult To Lead!

My 22-month-old filly is difficult to lead, she throws her head in the air, sometimes rears, and then takes off at full speed,

I always use a headcollar as I am nervous about hurting her mouth with a harness.

I feel she should be walking out on roads now for her education, but I am worried that I will not be able to control her.

Stable talk Answer:

Your youngster mustn’t learn that she is stronger than a human.

So if necessary enlist the help of someone strong enough to deal with her, she must not realise that she can lift you off the ground or cart you about whenever she pleases.

Another tack you can take is to go back to basics.

Leading your youngster round in the stable, where she cannot charge off anywhere-rather like a mini lungeing lesson.

You could find it easier to control her when out in a field by using a “controller” halter( although some horses do not like the sensation of it tightening on the head ).

Use a normal headcollar and passing the headrope from the back D, anti-clockwise around the nose and through the back D again, but making sure that it does not interfere with her breathing.

If necessary, introduce her to a bit, and use a coupling or thread the lead rope through the nearside cheek ring and clip it to the offside ring to lead her.

Although you are reluctant to bit her at the moment, there is no reason why you should not do this.

You need to be in control.

Until you have sorted out the leading problem, do not attempt to take her out on the roads!

And when you do decide to go out, stick to quiet lanes and have a calm, sensible horse as escort to give her confidence.

Improving Paddocks!

The paddocks we have were previously a building site.

Our soil is mainly ash and is bone dry in the summer, so the grass is slow to grow and is yellowy.

Is there a way to anything which can be applied to improve the grass and soil?

Would nitrogen fertiliser be of any use?

Also, do you know of any laws regarding microlights near bridleways? They fly very low, and my pony has already bolted.

Stable talk Answer:

As regards your grazing, if you are the landowners, then it would be wise for you to contact a soil testing company, and based on their recommendations, take action.

It is important that when trying to improve grazing that individual characteristics and previous history and any underlying problems are investigated.

It is not just a simple case of applying fertilisers willy nilly.

Regarding the microlight problem, contact your local council about this.

Alternatively ( or if you do not get much help ), you could try getting in touch with the Acces and Rights of way department at the British horse society.

Shelter Bedding!

Can you advise on the floor covering in and around my field shelter?

The floor is stony soil, but it does get muddy around the entrance and inside.

Previously I have used straw successfully, but my pony has developed COPD ( Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease ), so an alternative must be available.

Stable talk Answer:

You could use shavings to form a semi-deep litter bed inside your field shelter, although without the dimensions of the housing, it is impossible to say how many bales you would need.

Although you will find that deep litter is not generally recommended for horses with respiratory problems, since this is a shelter rather than a stable, ventilation shouldn’t be a problem!

Drainage is essential if the bedding is to be successful.

If you can afford it, you might think of laying a base inside.

Loose weave asphalt laid over fine gravel, on top of type one stone, might be an option.

The urine will drain away into the earth- or use old bricks laid on gravel with about half an inch between them.


Can you tell me the effect if any, that molasses has on horses?

I have a 16.2hh 17-year-old TB mare, which is highly strung.

She became unrideable about four months ago, so I took her to the local equine veterinary hospital for tests.

They have given her the all-clear: no pain, no hormone problem etc.

They thought that she was a very lovely forward going horse, asked about her food, exercise etc. and watched her being ridden.

We have now been given ACP tablets for her, to be given before she is ridden out.

This does seem to help as she no longer rears or swings her body about when we turn for home.

Could you advise on the following points:

 what effect will ACP tablets have?

 Does molasses heat up a horse that has a forward going, highly strung nature?

 Would a change in diet help, e.g. a straightforward cool mixture?

 We are moving to our fields with one other mare ( to which mine is very attached ) and two geldings, will this cause a problem with mares and geldings sharing?

 The new fields which we have purchased are on a bridleway away from the main roads will the local police or fire brigade advice on safety?

 The field was sprayed by the previous owner, to get rid of a lousy ragwort problem.

We have pulled most of it out and intend to harrow and reseed this spring, Will it be alright for horses to graze on this summer?

Are 4 acres enough for our four horses if the muck is taken off the field regularly and the land is then harrowed?

Stable talk Answer:

ACP is used as a sedative and tranquilliser.

Consult your vet if you are worried about the effects of long term use.

It may be possible to use a homoeopathic alternative.

If you wish to explore this possibility, contact the Alternative Veterinary Medicine Centre, click on this link,

for a list of homoeopathic veterinary practitioners who may be able to help you with your mare.

I would not have thought a small quantity of molasses would have been solely responsible for your mare’s behaviour.

But it is an energy giving food, and it may just be possible that she is allergic to it in the same way as hyperactivity in children can be caused by certain food substances.

You could always try omitting it from her diet to see if there is any change, feeding non-molasses chaff instead.

Keeping mares and geldings together should not cause any problems.

Some people do have definite views on keeping the sexes segregated.

The only time you might have problems is if you have a mare who tends to flirt and be a real nuisance when in season.

But I have never had any trouble in keeping both sexes turned out together.

Contact your local police station or horse watch group about making your premises more secure.

Your local fire service will be able to offer advice on fire precautions.

stable friends image for blog article.
Paddock friends.
Algae build-up!

What steps if any, are there that I can take to prevent algae growing around the sides of my water trough?

At present I have to empty and scrub the trough weekly; since it is an automatic water trough, I thought the trough and water should stay cleaner for longer.

What are the negative consequences of horse drinking water from a trough dirty with algae?

Are there any positive consequences?

Stable talk Answer:

Regular scrubbing-out of water troughs is a must to prevent the build-up of algae and sediment.

Otherwise, you may find some horses may refuse to drink from them at all if algae are allowed to build up.

Although using a mild solution of disinfectant may help to prevent such a rapid build-up, some horses may be deeply suspicious of the smell and turn their noses up; since there is no way of monitoring the water intake. Regular scrubbing with a stiff brush and clean water may ultimately be the best solution.

Drainage systems!

I am considering constructing either an indoor or an outdoor school for exercising my horses. The problem is, how should the ground be prepared beforehand?

For a sand school, can you put the sand directly on the topsoil after draining it, or is it essential to remove the topsoil?

Should there be a layer of stones about one foot below the surface to assist drainage?

horse paddock image for blog article

Stable talk Answer:

You can make an exercise ring quickly by laying soiled bedding ( droppings removed first ) directly on top of grass or soil.

This will give a surface which will enable you to work in all but the worst of the weather.

Straw can, however, become a little slippery when it is wet, and care should be taken.

For a more permanent surface or an indoor school, you will need to construct a proper, level base to ensure correct drainage.

The construction of such a base depends to a certain extent upon the type of surface you ultimately intend to lay.

Bear in mind, however, that whatever surface you choose, it will only be as good as the base you lay, so you shouldn’t attempt to take short cuts here.

The construction of the base will also be determined by the soil structure and location you have in mind.

loving touch image for blog article.
Loving touch.
Back problems!

I have a 13-year old horse on loan which had not worked for two years. She was fine when I started riding her, but I have now noticed that two of her vertebrae are prominent.

I ran my fingers down either side of her sp[ine and she sank about a foot but showed no signs of pain.

She doesn’t sink when I mount, and she isn’t lame or stiff in any way when she walked out.

The vet is baffled. What do you think I should do?

Stable talk Answer:

The problems you describe in your email are common in horses who have a saddle-related problem.

We are concerned that when she sinks as you run your fingers down her spine, you have not recognised this as a sign of discomfort or pain.

This reaction is not normal unless you put considerable pressure close to the spine.

We do see this in horses who have bruising and muscular problems due to ill-fitting saddles.

For more information about this, or wish to discuss your horse’s saddle in more depth, please contact a reputable master saddler.

perfect fitting saddle image for blog article
Perfect fitting saddle.
Saddle reactions!

My four-year-old New Forest x Arab mare moves away when she sees me approaching with her saddle,  although she does stand to be saddled and when I tighten the girth.

However, if I run my hand along her back, she shivers.

My instructor has put it down to her lack of muscle because she is beautiful when ridden.

The saddle I have come with her and is a 16-inch GP  ( general purpose ).

I use a numnah but can only push it up into the gullet at the cantle end, not the pommel.

Stable talk Answer:

I feel that the reactions from your mare when you go to tack her up could well be indicating some problems with the fit of the saddle.

It is it’s difficult to give you a proper assessment when I haven’t seen the horse and saddle.

In my experience, horses do not object to the actions of their riders or handlers unless they have a good reason.

You mention that your saddle is a 16-inch G.P. Unfortunately, this information is not enough, as the significant influence on the comfort of your horse is the width of the saddle.

If the saddle is fairly new, it will have stamped on the stirrup bar an N, M or W to show whether it is Narrow, Medium or Wide.

In my experience, based on her breeding, a Narrow or Medium width will not be wide enough for your mare.

We also feel that you need to consider the long term implications of such a young and experienced horse being “trained” ( albeit unintentionally ) to associate discomfort with being ridden.

As far as the numnah is concerned, obviously, if the gullet of the saddle is not wide enough, it will be hard to keep any numnah up sufficiently.

Please contact a reputable master saddler.

It is much better to get professional advice and measurements of your horse.

First-hand experience!

I have been a regular weekend rider on and off for the past ten years or so and I now feel that I am financially secure with a good career, I would like to have my own horse.

Having had lessons and hacked out regularly, my knowledge of stable management is minimal.

However, I am willing to learn and feel that I have sufficient time at weekends and during summer evenings to keep a horse part livery at a local stable.

Please give me some advice on me about how I should go about purchasing a horse for myself.

Also, what is the best way of arranging proper care?

Stable talk Answer:

You are honest enough to admit that your knowledge of stable management is relatively limited.

It is a good idea to start remedying this before taking up horse ownership!

Ask at your local riding school if they run or plan to run any courses on this.

You should also ask if you can help out at weekends or in the evenings.

Helping out others with their horses is an excellent way to gain experience with horses.

This will give you the chance to find out if horse ownership is for you!

Your idea of keeping a horse on part livery is an excellent one.

In answer to your question regarding purchasing a horse,

When you are ready, you can find horses and ponies for sale on websites such as:

as well as others.

It is also a good idea to join reliable and trustworthy horse forum groups for information.

horse practice image for blog article.
Practice makes perfect.

When we bought my pony, some friends collected him for us in their lorry. We have since tried to load him in our trailer but without success.

It’s a huge battle to get him in, and he immediately leaps out. What can we do?

Read our other interesting blogs:

Stable talk Answer:

Lots of horses and ponies are mildly, and some very badly claustrophobic and this often accounts for difficulties in loading.

A lorry is larger, and generally more inviting than a trailer; it is also more stable when travelling, and there are a number of animals who are reasonably happy in a lorry, but which flatly refuse to go into a trailer.

You will need to teach your pony to go into the trailer since it will obviously be inconvenient to rely on your friend all the time; try to load him every single day, encouraging him to walk gradually further up the ramp, offering him a feed in a bucket.

Make sure the trailer is located on level ground and doesn’t rock around; put plenty of bedding down inside the ( and on the ramp ) and bandage or put travelling boots on your pony to protect his legs.

If there is a partition, remove it, so there is more space inside for him.

You don’t say whether you have a front unload ramp, which would be ideal; if you do, put it down so that he can see right through and doesn’t feel trapped.

Once you can get him to step into the trailer for his feed, lead him right through and repeat all over again.

Once he is happy about this, try halting him in the trailer, letting him eat his feed and then try unloading him; gradually build up the time you spend with him halted in the trailer and then try asking someone to put up the rear of the ramp-make sure they stand to the side of it whilst doing this.

If he is happy with this, put up the front ramp too, but remember to take everything in gradual stages.

It might be helpful if there is no-one at your yard to assist you, to contact the centre that you bought him from, and to ask someone to come over for a couple of hours to help you with the problem.

You could also enquire as to whether this problem with trailers is one he has always had, and whether there is a reason for it, such as a bad experience previously.

Once he is happy to load and unload, ask your dad to take him for a short drive, making it very slowly and returning to the yard the first couple of times, where you can unload and load him again.

Make sure you have a breast bar up though!

Getting your pony’s confidence will take lots of patience and perseverance, but try to get into the habit of taking him each day if possible and giving him his feed inside the trailer rather than in his stable, so he looks forward to going in, rather than dreading it.

Difficult to bridle

Before I bought him my horse had been neglected, he is very sensitive around his ears as he suffered rain rash.

Although his ears are healing, putting on his bridle is virtually impossible. As soon as you go near his ears he goes crazy. I’ve tried various approaches, eg, taking the bridle to bits, but to no avail. He is ok with a headcollar and will let me stroke his ears. It seems as though the bridle problem is because he anticipates pain.

Should I persevere or give him a break and hope he gets over his fear?

Stable talk Answer:

It sounds as though you have worked hard at putting your horse’s condition right again; continue with your policy of gently handling his head and ears at every opportunity. For the moment at any rate, when bridling up, just use an absolutely basic bridle, remove the browband altogether, take off the bit and slide the remaining headpiece and cheekpieces over his head like a headcollar.

Attach the bit to the offside cheekpiece, pop it in his mouth and attach it to the nearside cheekpiece, and do up the throatlash. You will find that cheekpieces with buckles will be easier to manage hook stud billets. Have the bit adjusted so that it is a little on the low side whilst putting it on ( although not so much that it bangs against his front teeth ) so that you don’t inadvertently pull the headpiece into the base of his ears; once you have got it buckled on, adjust it to a more correct height.

If you find that the bridle tends to slip back from the poll, make up a simple browband from a strip of cloth or broad nylon tape ( like the sort of headcollars are made from ) and add a piece of velcro to the ends, so that you can slip it into place and fold the ends over to secure it. Once he is more confident about having his ears handled and folded forwards, you could try putting on the bridle again in a more conventional way, although initially, you may have to undo a cheekpiece whilst putting the headpiece on.

Just take things quietly though, as it will take some time for him to come to realise that it isn’t going to hurt.

Working well image for blog article.
Working well.
Weight-carrying capacity

My mare is a 14.2 three-quarter Arab, Quarter Dartmoor and is medium stocky build.

Am I too heavy for her at eleven and a half stones? I am currently dieting.

Stable talk Answer:

Both Arabs and natives are usually pretty strong provided the conformation is good, but it does sound as though you may possibly be pushing it a little bit by riding her at your current weight.

A lot obviously depends on your mares build and conformation as to how much weight she can happily cope with, and you might find it best to ask a good instructor to take a look at you together to access this at first hand (it is difficult really to comment without seeing her), and to give you some idea of a maximum weight.

Your plan to diet is good, as apart from not overstressing your mare, you will also find that a trimmer figure will actually help you to improve your riding (as well as give you a psychological boost), so stick at it! Do have a chat with your local GP about this though, so you can work out a sensible plan which won’t incur any health problems for you.

happy young foal image for blog article.
Pretty foal.

My five-year-old gelding used to live in a barn-type stable. Now he’s in an ordinary stable, and he’s banging the door and pawing the ground. He can see the other horses, but this does not seem to make any difference.

Stable talk Answer:

Door kicking and pawing at the ground is usually an expression of psychological frustration-I assume that he is turned out to graze for some part of the day and not kept continually stabled or in the barn? If not, then it would be wise to do so, and this habit is very understandable!

You could try leaving him in the stable with something to keep him occupied like a haynet or a swede suspended on a rope to nibble at and a toy such as a football or a plastic squash container half-filled with water and hung up for him to play with.

There is also the possibility that he is a little claustrophobic and, while he doesn’t mind the larger barn area, is unable to cope with the more confined stable, in which case you will simply have to continue using the barn instead.

horse resting image for blog article.
Time for a rest.
Biting Difficulties

My gelding gets his tongue over the bit, He is ridden in a vulcanite snaffle and a flash nose-band. He is not comfy in a metal bit as he tilts his head and chews one side of the bit. I am considering changing to a hackmore. What do you suggest?

Stable talk Answer:

Before changing bits, ask your vet to check your geldings mouth and teeth, as a problem here will cause difficulties. Check also that the bit is adjusted sufficiently high up-if it is very low it will encourage this problem.

Using a grakle noseband, rather than a different bit, maybe the solution, as the higher pressure point will help stop him from being able to open his mouth sufficiently to manoeuvre his tongue over the bit.

If necessary, try using this in conjunction with a rubber tongue port. Another option you could try is an Australian checker, which helps to keep the bit up in the mouth, and is useful for horses which try to put their tongues over the bit.

If it is found that he has a mouth problem which means that, temporarily at least, he is better off with without a bit,

You could try opting for a scawbrig, which is the mildest of this family, fitted with the noseband three or four fingers’ width above the nostrils so it cannot hamper breathing.

Just friends image for blog article.
Just friends.

My mare has always been cold backed, but recently when I’ve saddled up she tenses up and when I mount she snorts and jogs off. My instructor says everything’s, okay but my horse is not the sort to be naughty without reason. Do you think there’s something wrong or am I overreacting?

Stable talk Answer:

It would certainly be worth asking your vet to check over your mares back since there may possibly be a physical problem at the root of this. You should also ask your saddler to check the fit of her saddle-bear in mind that the stuffing can settle with time, horses can change shape with work and it may not be a good a fit now as when you first bought it. The fact that she has not acted this way in the past, but only recently, would seem to indicate the presence of some kind of physical problem.

Here Are Some More Interesting Blogs:

Are you ready to buy your first horse? 

So you have the desire to own your own horse and want to know if you are ready for horse ownership.

But how do you know that you are ready and able to commit to such a life-changing commitment?

Owning a horse has probably been a dream of yours for quite a while now, you have probably had riding lessons, gone out on country lane hacks with others, and more than likely gone to some horse and pony shows with your friends.

For many who have been bitten by the horse bug, the desire to have your own horse, to love and care for can be all-consuming.

In this article, we will consider the costs and commitment involved in realising your dream.

What will a horse cost to own?

Horse ownership is expensive, and there are a lot of factors that make up the cost of horse ownership. A recent statistic showed that the average cost of horse ownership was between £2700-£3600 per year! This is quite an accurate figure if you don’t intend to take part in events.

Showing and taking part in events will further increase the budget needed, And those that are determined will find a way to achieve this.

A breakdown of expenses are as follows:
  • The purchase price of the horse along with all tack. £2000-£10000
  • Farrier. Approx every six weeks: £25-£30 for trimming and £50-£85 for shoeing per visit.
  • Vets fees. approx £70 per year for inoculations, insurance a further £20-£40 per month.
  • Board: Diy livery: £30-£40 per week.Full livery: £100-£150 per week.
  • Feed: approx £10 per week upwards, depending on the amount of exercise/work the horse does.
  • Training: Depends on type and amount.
  • Lessons: Depends on type and amount.
  • Transportation: depends on shows and events attended.
  • Equipment and supplies. Ongoing an unknown quantity.
  • Show fees depend on shows and events attended.
horse care image for blog article
Horse care
Do You Have The Time For Horse Ownership?

This really is a huge one. And just as important if not more important than working out the costs of ownership.

Be realistic when deciding what time you will have available for your horse and its care.

If you have a full-time job, then your life will become very busy with all the chores associated with horse care and management as well.

You will need to find time to ride and exercise your horse, and you may also still be having riding lessons as well. Horse ownership is demanding, but again, the rewards are many.

If you are fortunate enough to be able to keep your horse at your home location, then the cost of ownership is dramatically cut.

You will need to perform all the daily stable chores associated with keeping your horse fed, clean, and safe. You will need to have arrangements in place in case your taken ill and can’t manage the chores or your away on holiday.

If you are boarding your horse, whether it is a half board or full board, you will have more flexibility with your time. It is a commonplace to pay for someone to feed and carry out the daily chores, and you may even find someone to exercise your horse when you are not available.

It is so important to think about why you want to own a horse instead of continuing with riding lessons and hacks out.

What are your goals and your skills? If you’ve loved horses all your life, you more than likely have taken riding lessons and are competent? You may even be a regular visitor at your local stables and have been helping out.

Riding out and having fun!
riding out having fun image for blog article
Riding out and having fun

Many people are picking up riding later on in their lives, then safety as well as having fun are at the top of the list.

Resuming horse riding after many years of absence can be challenging physically, mentally, and emotionally if we are not ready for it and committed.

Your choice of the horse is key to having fun and being safe in the saddle, your first horse should be your teacher, You will want a horse that you feel 100% secure on, and that instils trust as well as confidence.

Life is just too short. Buy your horse. (make sure its the right one. )

No two horses are the same. Even within the same breed, there are differences in personality, variety, physique, and health.

When you start your search for your horse, seek advice from an experienced trainer, rider, or vet to help make sure you ask the right questions to find the right choice for you.

Where to look for your first horse?
Love your horse image for blog article.
Love your horse.

Often you can find a good gentle, experienced horse by joining established, safe, and reliable horse-related forum groups on the internet.

If you are looking for a particular breed, then a reputable breeder is an excellent choice. Just to point out! You should only have dealings with trustworthy people.

Stable talk is a great way to find out all sorts of information, Ask your friends at the stable you go to each weekend, where and how did they buy their horse.

What were their particular experiences when searching and buying their horse?

Also horse and pony clubs have blogs, as well as classified advertisement websites that cater specifically for pets. 

Consider a well established and reputable rescue centre, for a quiet well-trained mature horse for an adoption fee.

Many horses are given up to these centres through no fault of their own.

Perhaps the horse’s owners financial circumstances have changed, and they can no longer finance their hobby/lifestyle?

Or it’s their teenager’s horse, and they have lost interest in it?

Whatever the reason was, I am sure that there are many sound and safe horses available throughout the UK.

Just me and my horse image for blog article.
Just me and my horse.
Avoid Going To Horse Auctions!

You do need to be a very experienced horse person to be able to make a safe purchase.

Very often, horses are sold at horse auctions are not sold with complete or honest information.

They may very well be stolen, and could even be on some medication to mask a health problem.

Also, be aware of some horse dealers who pick up (free to good homes ones) or very cheap horses and reselling them at a large profit.

At the end of the day, you are much better off and more likely to find the horse of your dreams by working directly with a horse owner that has owned the horse for many years, an established breeder or a properly licensed and certified rescue centre.

When viewing a potential horse for yourself, take someone along with you.

Even if you feel you’re confident and have enough knowledge to make a choice, it is always good to have a second opinion.

Observe the horse, is the horse moving freely?

Is The horse good-tempered and reacting positively to its stablemates?

While your observing, talk to the owner.

If the horse is at a boarding stable, Discreetly chat to others asking for their views and observations on the horse.

Check the certification of vaccinations.

Look the horse over for signs of illness such as laboured breathing, and shortness of breath.

Keep an eye out for uneven wear on hooves or shoes, scars or other blemishes and marks.

You can, and I recommend that you get a veterinary report on the horse that you may be considering.
Tenderness image for blog article.
When considering horse ownership, research is everything!

The golden rules are?

  • Make sure you can afford the ongoing expenses before purchasing.
  • Do Research And more Research
  • Listen to the stable talk.
  • Take your time to find the right horse for you.
  • Don’t be in a rush to make a hasty decision you may regret.
  • Study any paperwork relating to the horse.
  • Do not part with any money until you are delighted and happy.
  • Do get a veterinary report, the more detailed, the better.
  • Take someone knowledgeable with you on viewings, never go alone!
  • Don’t arrange to go to secluded places alone. Your safety is paramount.
  • Always inform others of your movements and schedule.

Another couple of interesting blog articles:

“When you’re on a great horse, you have the best seat you will ever have ~ Sir Winston Churchill.